Can I dye "polished" cotton with Procion dyes?


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Message: Can I dye "polished" cotton with Procion dyes?

It depends on what sort of polished cotton you have. If the "polish" is from a satin or sateen weave, then you can dye it easily. See "How can I dye satin or charmeuse?".

If, on the other hand the "polish" on your cotton is provided by a chemical finish of some sort, then it is likely to prevent the dye from reaching the cotton smoothly and evenly.

Chemical finishes are not indicated on the fiber content label. The only way to be sure of whether your polished cotton is dyeable is to cut off a small swatch (often a fabric store will give you a small sample; if not, you can buy a quarter-yard) and do a small test by trying to dye it. For one method of quickly testing with fiber reactive dye, see my August 08, 2010 blog entry about testing old dyes:

Cut the fabric up into swatches, perhaps three or six inches wide, whatever's small and convenient. Using zip-lock-type plastic freezer bags (not the storage bags which are too thin for use in storing frozen foods), place one piece of fabric in each bag. I like to use quart-sized bags for this (i.e., one-liter bags or smaller). Mix a small amount of each fiber reactive dye that you want to test with a small amount of water and pour it over a swatch of fabric in the bag. Also mix up some sodium carbonate, one teaspoon (5 ml) of soda ash per one cup (250 ml) of water, and pour some of this into each bag. Seal each bag, pressing out most of the air.

Do you have a microwave oven? If so, you can microwave the bags, all at once, inside a dish of some sort, watching closely until the bags puff up with steam; stop the microwave before they can explode. The bags will slump down as the steam condenses again. Repeat this if you want to be sure the dye's good and hot, then allow to cool at room temperature. If you do not have a microwave oven, then fill a bucket or a sink with hot water, at least 60°C (that's 140°F), or hotter, heating the water on the stove if necessary, then place the sealed bags into the hot water and leave them for an hour or so. The extra heat from the waterbath or the microwave oven speeds up the dye reactions, to make the test more practical, so you don't have to wait until the next day to get your results. Drimarene K dyes like extra warmth more than Procion MX dyes do, but I have used this test for Procion dyes many times.

After the bags have cooled, rinse the swatches out with cool water (a colander is handy to prevent small slips of fabric from going down the drain), then with the hottest water you have available, to see how much dye remains in the fabric after the hot water has removed as much as possible of the unattached, unbonded dye. You can place all of the swatches in a net lingerie bag to do this in the washing machine, or, for greatest efficiency, you can even pour boiling water over the fabric.


Though the above method was designed for testing dyes rather than fabric, you can adapt it to get a quick idea of whether a fabric appears to be dyeable, as long as you take care to wash the dye out thoroughly afterwards, using very hot water. (Don't forget the soda ash fixative when you apply the dye!) Sometimes fabric appears nicely dyed until the wash-out, and then it turns out that none of the dye is actually attached to the fiber, so it all washes out.

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Posted: Friday - September 02, 2011 at 06:56 AM          

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