tie-dye history

I've found this picture on the Flickr, that might be interesting for all tie-dyers.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/7714798@N04/455909077/

Photo taken at Woodstock 69

tie(?) dyeing

There may be some aspects of shibori going on but there is little evidence of fabric bondage going on, string or rubber band.

The Digger's Tie Dye

The text accompanying that picture is interesting, too:

Our American Century Turbulent Years: The 60s. 1998. Edited by Sara Brash and Loretta Britten. Alexandria, Virginia: Time-Life Books, 175. (Photography Copyright 1989 Charles Harbutt/Actuality Inc., New York.)

Many may associate the tie-dye with the hippie, but it actually originated from a sub group of hippie people, known as the digger. When the simple wearing of white as an outer garment turned from the not rebellious enough against the “establishments,” these T’s were soon being dyed in “bright strident colors” and later “were tie-dyed in undulating spirals, psychedelic colors spirals and circles,” again for some, interpretations of their acid hallucinations (American Decades: 1960-1969 1995). This was one of the many results of the “oppositional sub-culture than had been germinating for some time,” eventually leading to the labeling of a movement to be known as counterculture (Brick 1998).

The free Haight Ashbury district of San Francisco people were pure examples of the possibilities and limits of this mid 60’s countercultural movement. In their “free city,” of hippie origin, they set up a free housing network, a communication system, concerts, and store (for free clothes and household goods.) and held a regular food giveaway. The diggers were the theater geeks of these hippies, those claiming to be life actors, scripting their own stories and turning every day life into a theater of endless possibilities. Like the rest of there fellows, they strived for an edginess and did so in their communitarian ethos with a “do your own thing” mentality involving usually a sense of adventure leading to the rampant use of narcotics, thievery, and romanticism of the criminal underworld. It was some of these people that formed the infamous rural communes of the late 60’s in southern California. In essence, these people seemed to be the rebels of the rebels. Whether seen as a positive or not, they did provide a huge contribution to ecological awareness (Farber 2001).

The picture shown here was one taken of a booth at a Woodstock Music and Art Fair in August 1969. Counter cultural fashion had prided itself on offering one of a kind, natural, and homemade, again all key elements of the hippie look. In further going along with hippie philosophy, only natural dyes were used. Fabrics were usually knotted together prior to create a sunburst effect. (Our American Century Turbulent Years: The 60s 1998).



American Decades: 1960-1969. 1995. Edited by Richard Layman. New York: Gale Research International Limited.

Brick, Howard. Age of Contradiction: American Thought and Culture in the 1960s. 1998. London: Twayne Publishers.

Farber, David, and Beth Bailey. The Columbia Guide To: America in the 1960s. 2001. New York: Columbia University Press.

Our American Century Turbulent Years: The 60s. 1998. Edited by Sara Brash and Loretta Britten. Alexandria, Virginia: Time-Life Books.

From the picture, I strongly suspect they were not using natural dyes mentioned in the article. It's easy to claim to use natural dyes or vegetable dyes. The only bright natural blue dye is indigo, though, not the turquoise shown, and natural greens that do not contain indigo (plus a yellow) tend to be brownish, nothing like the leaf green color in the picture.

-Paula

I have the same incredulity

I have the same incredulity that these are natural dyes, Paula.

Here's a tiedye question:

What light-setting dye back in the 1970s came out in gold and orange and brown tones on muslin, and looked "urkish" and not true to the dye shade when it was applied?

I've been visiting with one of the pioneering tiedye artists of my community who started with this technique using bound resist and low water immersion in the 1970s. He's 84 now, and very cool. He says of tiedye, "Let the material take you on a journey." He can't remember the name of it, but here now some 30 years later his framed dyes are still found in some public art spaces here. He says he got these dyes from a man in California.

vat dyes

The dyes in the picture are most likely Rit all-purpose dyes, I think, which a contemporary source, Maureen Mubeem, said would wash out in two or three washes, since they applied them in cool water and did not have cationic fixatives. All-purpose dye contained a bunch of benzidine-based (carcinogenic) dyes back then, so the hippies' famous disinclination to be careful about cleanliness must not have done them any good at all. No easy access to thin disposable latex or nitrile gloves back then.

The dye that looked different when applied was probably vat dye. Vat dyes are available in a huge range of colors, but they are a different color during application, just like indigo. Check out this 1970 interview with Maureen Mubeem in Rags. She used vat dye, which she called aniline dye, evidently with somewhat inadequate protection against the chemicals she used. (It sounds as if she got lye in her hair and lungs.) For more information about these dyes, see About Vat Dyes. You can buy a limited number of vat dyes from ProChem, and Aljo Dyes in New York sell an incredible variety of vat dyes, not just mixtures but different individual dye chemicals. Here's a link to a copy of their October vat dye inventory [PDF].

What do you mean by "light-setting"? Pre-reduced vat dyes can be set by light, for example Inkodyes. (See How to Dye and Paint Fabric with Light.)

-Paula

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