alter ego dyes

Is there an alternative to alter ego dyes when dying a velvet/silk burnout fabric?

dyeing rayon/silk velvet devoré

Sure. As an alternative to Alter Ego brand dyes on silk/rayon burnout fabric, use Procion MX dyes (or another fiber reactive dye) with soda ash. If you use a premixed color, the rayon and silk will come out different colors from each other. If you use an unmixed "pure" color the silk backing and rayon pile will come out different intensities of the same color. This is much less expensive, and for many of us more convenient, than using Alter Ego brand dyes. However, you don't have the same choices for contrasting colors.
 
Alter Ego appears to be a combination of a direct dye (the hot water dye that works on both cotton and silk, but, unless treated with a dye fixative such as Retayne, bleeds in the laundry forever), an acid dye (for dyeing protein fibers) with a relatively low propensity towards staining cellulose fibers, and an expensive little bottle of dye fixative which probably contains both a cationic dye fixative, likely similar to Retayne, and a reserving agent, such as a syntan, which reduces the amount that the direct dye will stain the silk. I do not know of another reserving agent that we can buy anywhere in quantities suitable for artists' use.
 
It would be handy if we could gather a list of which specific fiber reactive dyes make what effects on rayon/silk devoré. For example, Dharma's "#18 deep purple" dyes the rayon pile purple, while dyeing the silk backing a contrasting shade of raspberry. I posted about this here on Nov. 6, 2006. Unfortunately I've done no additional testing of this topic since then, myself.
 
You can dye your silk/rayon fabric with an acid dye and either a direct dye or (better) a fiber reactive dye, in two separate steps, for a lot less money than Alter Ego dyes cost. Unfortunately, you need the special Alter Ego fixative/reserving agent to keep direct dye from staining the silk. I advise using the acid dye first, because there are some acid dyes, such as Rhodamine Red (actually a basic dye, but sold as an acid dye as well), which may attach more strongly to the other dye you've already applied than to the cellulose fiber itself.
 
ProChem says that, among their Washfast Acid dyes, the best ones for not staining cellulose fibers are Flavine yellow, Sun yellow, Red, and Rhodamine Red. Suppose, for example, you were to dye your silk/rayon first with one of these specific yellow or red acid dyes, then overdye with Procion Turquoise MX-G, which tends (I think) to dye cellulose more intensely than it does silk. You'd end up, depending on your choice, with either a yellowish green silk backing or a red silk backing, with a blue rayon pile. There's a little bit more discussion of this from another Nov. 6, 2006 posting I made here in the dye forum.
 
There's a great deal said about how convenient it is to be able to dye both the rayon and the silk in the fiber blend fabric at the same time. However, I suspect that a lot of people who are using these dyes are using a cooking pan for their Alter Ego dyes, and later on reusing the pan for food. That's not a good idea. The components of Alter Ego dyes have not been not tested to show that they are safe for use in food preparation utensils. It makes it a lot less convenient for dye novices who don't have a dyepot yet, if they have to devote a pot to dyeing right at the outset. It can also add considerably to the price, depending on how large a pot is needed.
 
I once dyed a silk devoré shawl pink with fiber reactive dye, and then black with Lanaset dye. I got a considerable amount of staining of the rayon pile with the Lanaset black acid dye. I don't know if it would have helped any at all to do the dyeing in the reverse order, as one should do when dyeing the silk and the rayon in separate steps; I think the Lanaset black would probably stain the rayon in any case. The effect was very nice, anyway. Untangling the fringe after dyeing and then washing out was an incredible pain, though. I don't want to do that again, ever.

dyeing rayon/silk velvet w/ fiber reactive and Lanaset

Hey Paula,
I too have experimented with double- dye baths for silk/rayon velvet. I did the opposite of you and dyed the LAnaset first. The biggest problem I had was with Lanaset violet which ran and bled after the fiber reactive bath (Sabracron gold...awesome combo!!!) That was with a .60 DOS...a scarf with only .10 DOS of violet almost completely discharged the Lanaset!
Is there something different about the Lanaset violet, or can I expect the same bleeding from any other color coming out of the reactive bath?
Thanks for all your expertise and experimentation!
Lynne

Sabracron dyebath removed Lanaset violet

I've never used the Lanaset violet. Like about half of the Lanaset dyes, it is a fiber reactive dye, different from our other reactive dyes only in that it is intended to react with proteins when steamed or boiled at a mildly acidic pH. It should be reasonably washfast to 140°F. I don't know what a high pH will do to properly fixed Lanaset dyes.

Is it possible that there's something about your Lanaset dyeing procedure that's not ideal? Did you use citric acid, acetic acid, white vinegar, or sodium acetate to fix it? How long did you steam it for?

What were the conditions under which you applied your Sabracron gold, which removed your Lanaset violet? Presumably you used soda ash, since you're dyeing rayon.

We may need to consult ProChem, which has excellent technical support, either by mail at promail (at) prochemical.com, or by phone at (508) 676-3838.

violet lanaset

I used citric acid in an immerson bath. It wasn't so much the soda ash that was the agent of doom for the violet so much as the post-dye processing (after the Sabracron immersion). After rinsing in cool water for several minutes, I put my velvet into a clear water bath and brought to a simmer...I do this because it clears the fiber reactive color from the piece more quickly than rinsing and rinsing by hand. Could be that the heat is the culprit....and, mea culpa...I may have rushed the violet lanaset initially.

hot rinsing Lanaset dye

I'll bet that's it. Use a thermometer to make sure that your rinse water does not exceed 140°F.

All dyes wash out more easily at higher temperatures, including both the unwanted unattached excess reactive dye, and the Lanaset dyes that you very much want to keep. Only the properly bonded Cibacron or Procion dye can be expected to survive boiling. Simmering is a quick and efficient way to remove unattached excess dye, but, unfortunately, it can also remove Lanaset dye. I'm afraid you'll have to resign yourself to rinsing, and rinsing, and rinsing....

odd results

I did some straight (yellow on the silk, blue on the rayon; yellow on the silk, red on the rayon) uses of Alter Ego on devore zipper bags. They turned out pretty cool. So I thought I'd try mixing a bit.

I put in straight red for the rayon pile, but put in both turquoise and red for the silk. I thought I'd get red pile on some type of purple or other... wasn't sure what, but you don't know unless you try.

My results were very odd indeed! I ended up with brilliant coral rayon on a smokey blue background. I did two scarves: one was devore satin, and the rayon was more of an accent, so I left it, however "unusual". The devore velvet was frankly hideous as it was 75% pile. I overdyed it with Jacquard's powdered Jet Black acid dye. This left me with a black silk background and a deep wine pile, which is really rather nice.

I just don't know that I have enough Alter Ego (I bought the starter set) to go on experimenting with it, though.

odd alter ego results

That's very interesting! (Can you post a picture?)

It seems that some of the yellow acid dye, found in either the turquoise or red mixture of acid dyes for the silk, or both, stained your rayon, and yet very little of the red acid dye worked at all on the silk. The unpredictability is surprising.

There's no chance you might have left out the fixative/reserving agent, is there?

odd results

I plan to photograph the latest set before the show on Saturday, so I'll try to put the weird one up here.

I'm sure I didn't leave out the fixative, because I treat the Alter Ego chemicals as if I'm cooking, setting them out and then putting them away as I add them. (It really does feel like cooking, come to think of it.)

One think I know I do differently than the instructions, however, is the amount of water. My designated dyeing pot is pretty big. I measure the dyes, etc, based on the weight of fabric, but I pretty much HAVE to add more water than they suggest.

small volume dyebaths for heating

I'd really like to see your results for the ones that came out the way you expected them to, as well, if that's not too difficult to arrange.

One possible way to reduce dyebath volume is to use canning jars, if a quart size is big enough. Fill the pot partway with water, not deep enough to float the filled jars, then place the canning jars in it, and heat. I do this sometimes for acid-dyeing multiple samples at once.

"blue and yellow" alter ego bag

click here

As you can see, the silk picked up some of the blue and the rayon picked up some of the yellow. It's still quite attractive.

I would like to work with the black Alter Ego to see if I could get colored rayon on black silk, but I recoil at forking over $18 just to try it.

red and yellow zipper bag

Those Alter Ego items

Oddball scarf:
click here

I haven't quite figured out how to get the photo to show up here, I'm afraid.

*smacks head*

You are way, way too smart. My hat is off to you (partially because I just smacked my head).

alter ego dyes

Thank you. I read both of these posts and find them both very helpful. I plan to experiment and will let you know how it turns out.

Thanks again.

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