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Thank you so much for your reply. When using the steaming method, would you still use the Urea and Soda Ash Fixer like you would if using the cold batch method? As you can see, I need all the help that I can get. I have purchased many books on the subject of dyes and dyeing, but none have been satisfactory on answering this particular question.

So far, I have used silk paints (Jaquard) that are set with an iron and have handpainted my design onto silk. I like the results but wanted to try using dyes. The one thing that I DON'T like about the silk paints is the time it takes to set the paint. My husband has made me a vertical steamer and I am looking forward to using it.

If you don't mind helping me a bit further, I would certainly be very appreciative.
Sincerely,
judyc58

Yes, I think I would probably just do like the instructions say before hand, and the only difference would be that you'd add steaming at the end. But ... depends. It sounds like you're doing painting; the urea is in your mix in order to keep the dye solution wet long enough that the dye bonds to the fiber. Given that you're going to steam, you might be able to remove this. (Urea might still be helpful for painting, though - allowing you to work more slowly, blending... Separate issue.) And, since it sounds like you're working on silk, you might find it fruitful to substitute citric acid crystals or vinegar, over using soda ash. Soda ash is basic (alkaline), citric and vinegar are acid, and silk prefers acid environments. I have a prejudice that MX and soda ash on silk can cause funky color shifts which don't happen when citric acid crystals are used instead of soda ash.

If you are using Procion H dyes instead of Procion MX, you can probably get away with no auxiliaries, the steam will set the dye. I was just reading an old post on the Dyer's list archives by someone who stated that, and that's been my experience too.

In general, I think the Procion H dyes, and maybe MX too, are happier (set better) if you let them dry after painting and then steam them. But I have definitely put damp, even almost-dripping, MX'd items directly into the steamer. But if color moves around on my items, it's not a problem. So if you want the color to stay exactly where you've painted it on, probably letting the item dry before steaming is a good approach. But maybe that will be like waiting for your paint to dry?

Paints and dyes feel very different on the fabric. Paints sit on top and inevitably leave at least a little hand; dyes penetrate, so you keep the incredible drape of silk (or whatever your fabric is) without any change in the hand.

You're lucky to have a vertical steamer, you'll get addicted. Though I'm also very fond of my mini rice cooker, I must say.

--Pia

Pia,
Thanks for your help. Your mentioned that vinegar or citric acid on the silk would be better than soda ash. How much vinegar would I use? Would it be the same amount as the soda ash if I went with the cold batch method rather than steaming?
judyc58

Look at this page:
Using Fiber reactive dyes on protein fibers

Dharma's recipe for "Tie-dyeing Silk in a Microwave" calls for pre-soaking with undiluted vinegar. (Unless otherwise specified, the vinegar to use is the distilled white kind, which is 5% acetic acid.) ProChem's recipe for "Direct Application on Wool using PRO MX Reactive Dyes" calls for 50% white vinegar and 50% water, plus a drop of Synthrapol detergent, for use as a presoak when dyeing wool with Procion MX dyes. You can generally use the same recipes on silk that you do on wool. Some of ProChem's recipes call for curing acid-dyed silk or wool at room temperature, but I believe that you will always get better colors with acid dyeing if you steam the dye in the fabric.

I think it may be important to not let your vinegar dry out before you apply the dye. Acetic acid, the active principle in vinegar, evaporates easily. I doubt this is an issue with citric acid. ProChem's recipes give the amount of citric acid to use instead of vinegar, if you choose to do so.

The main reason Pia argued against using soda ash on silk is that you get different colors than you get when using vinegar on silk. If you use single-hue dye colors, however, instead of mixed dyes, you will get the same color either way, and premixed colors that you buy will come out the wrong color either way - though they will produce different wrong colors, as Pia showed us earlier, and some will be more wrong than others - since premixed Procion MX colors are standardized for cotton, not for silk. Premixed Procion MX dye colors can give fine results on silk, whether used with soda ash or with vinegar, but they will usually not be the same color that you see on the color chart from your supplier.

There are also other reasons to choose between soda ash and vinegar, on silk. Obviously soda ash is simpler, since no steaming is required. It tends to give a softer feeling to the silk, though, often leaving it less shiny. Acid is better than soda ash, when dyeing silk, if you want to preserve the shine or a stiffer texture in the silk. I believe that soda ash is better if a very high degree of washfastness is required.